18. The final steps of the barrel require the following. 2 1/2″ PVC electrical conduit with 5/8″ ring of the wider female end cut of and put aside (remove the rest). 3″ PVC connector fittings which are cut into 3 pieces at 7/8″, 1- 1/2″ and 3/4″. You also need 4″ corrugated drain pipe cut approx 8″ long. All of these are easily found at local hardware stores.
19. Slide the 7/8″ ring up to the feed plate. Install the 2 1/2″ PVC inside the 3″ Cell core barrel using shims. There should be approx 7 1/2″ of the PVC exposed. Screw into place and trim the shims.
20. The corrugated drain pipe will need to be cut down to wrap the 3″ barrel. Use 14″ zip ties to secure in place making sure the ends are on the underside with the split in the drain pipe. Trim the excess and sand down to remove any sharp edges. Your gloves will thank you.
21. Next the 1- 1/2″ and 3/4″ PVC rings are installed as shown.
22. To make the transition in the barrel an kind of heavy plastic cup can be used. I found these at the local dollar store. Simply cut down and slide over the small end of the barrel. Trim the 3″ end, slide over the end of the barrel and glue into place. Easy right? Many people will do the added work of creating a seamless joint using Bondo for example. This is more accurate but I opted to leave this out.
23. Install the 5/8″ ring cut in step 18. Glue into place as shown.
24. The front sight is a small, complex piece to make myself so I ordered a custom laser cut one from fellow legion member TD-8266. Hit the 501st detachment forum to locate him ;). Install a dowel for some extra strength to hold the sight. This does require carefully drilling onto the base though. Installed a screw for some extra Lewis Gun authenticity.
25. The middle site is assembled from scrap Foam core pipe, ABS and some screws. It is attached using small L brackets I fabricated from ABS and secured with screws to the barrel.
26. The rear site is now completed. I have some added hinge detail on the rear sight but mine does not move as I thinks is too much of a weak point. The adjuster knob is made from 3 dimes and some Styrene and they do the job nicely.
27. It is now time to paint. I carefully masked of the corrugated area, used Bondo to fill in any screw heads and other imperfections, primed and sanded a few times then gave a few coats of flat black. I have not weathered these but most Troopers do go the extra mile with this. After trooping a few times and a trip to Dragon*Con with it, mine is already looking a bit worse for wear ;).
28. No T21 is complete without the sling assembly. You will need two (2) Enfield rifle slings and one Enfield sling attachment. You can find these fairly easy online but prices do vary. They can be OD green, Tan or one of each depending on the level of accuracy you looking for. Attach the ring to the rifle butt as shown. The two slings are connected together, forming one large one with the sling attached to the D ring at the rear. Loop one end over the front just behind the front sight.
This is now ready for trooping. As mentioned before, there are various ways to build this prop and what I have documented here certainly is not the only way. Thanks to all fellow troopers who have shared their builds enabling me to to do the research. If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask.
BlasTech T-21 Light Repeating Blaster Rifle – Part 1
BlasTech T-21 Light Repeating Blaster Rifle – Part 2
BlasTech T-21 Light Repeating Blaster Rifle – Part 3